NMPRA

Thanks Tim and dwyane. I really enjoy the cudos. A better way.. While playing with the motor with holes in the case I found a new and improved way to measure exhaust timing. I've been doing FAI motors so long it was second nature to do it from the front. Turning the wheel around makes it tons easier...

Another answer, yes lots of motors run higher timing. I don't know what their exact numbers are only what I've heard. If you measure your motor with out shims and you know what your base exhaust timing is when you hear a conversation about motor setups you can do some simple math in your head based ...

The reason I used the blue too sweets motor was to show the setup it was running. Also to show another trash can motor that went real well. The setup is mixed in the thread. To answer the messages its.. .245 dry fit piston depth. You will need to have a piston fitted to achieve this. The exhaust tim...

Exhaust timing and shims. Once you measure your motor, a mathematical certainty, every 1 degrees of exhaust timing is. 003 shim. If your best running motor is set up at 195 and 19. Pull the shims and measure it. "If" it measured 197 degrees with no shims and your TDC was 189 like the blue too sweet ...

Now, and only now can you match one motors exhaust timing to another motor. Blue two sweet fits. The piston dry fit is .245 extremely loose. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g244/just2fish/Mobile%20Uploads/20161205_132549-1_zpsgawlvofb.jpg The prop was a 6 http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g244/jus...

Once your convinced the light is gone, the wire is at 0, rotate the crank the opposite direction NOT UP but down all the way around until the light gap disappears again. Look at the indicator, this is your degrees of exhaust timing. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g244/just2fish/Mobile%20Uploads/2...

Now on to the degree wheel. This part will throw the "using liner shim by the numbers" and motor measurements right under the bus. I.e. why does this motor run good but this other motor "set up identically" runs completely different. Well let's start by matching the exhaust port timing and see what ...

The o-ring silicone is from a Jett tanker rebuild kit. The thinking is it will take the place of fuel between the bearing and crank, thereby reducing the rust. It's fuel proof. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g244/just2fish/Mobile%20Uploads/20161205_125336_zpszoqp7vv2.jpg next is the piston, again...

The tangerine is in the books, great time, great friends, great racing as usual. Randy and I made a good team lol I think we're starting to think alike too. To bad for him haha. Anywho, here's the breakdown of the blue too sweets rebuilt motor. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g244/just2fish/Mobile...

weather underground Dave. there's humidity there also.
https://www.wunderground.com/history/ai ... reqdb.wmo=
Here's a link, you can change it as needed.

The altitude is important when you get real high. From sea level to 1000' not so much. No real experience above 1000' so someone else will have to chime in.

Plugs and mother nature. The plane I flew at the Nats has been on the shelf since we got back. No changes, never even removed the prop. Took it to Markham on Monday afternoon to get a couple flights. It needled the same as I remember "this motor don't like to leave with no pinch, this is a discussio...

Another cool trick, the brass gasket is often the cause of leaking between the pipe and case. A little annealing will take care of that. Let them cool naturally. Softer metal seals better.

Dumb question but, the case is full of raw fuel not burnt fuel. How would the Nitro conversion to acid affect if it never sees it.

Kerosene, when my diesel motor in my pickup truck was rebuilt I couldn't believe how much rust was inside the injector lines. Those lines live in diesel fuel where did the rest come from. Completely flushing the motor with anything it's probably still the best bet. The lubricating oil in a spray can...