Latest and greatest timing and deck height?

[fizzwater2]

Maybe you should use the VOR method - strap a VOR receiver to your needle, and set it to the 273 degree radial of the nearest VOR at the time...

Of course, you have to fly every other lap clockwise around the course, or the needle screws itself in each lap. Either that, or take off 10 turns rich so it doesn't go lean by the end of the race.

[Mr_McGlue]

We are supposed to turn that needle thingy? Nobody told me that! No wonder I'm not winning!

Robert

[GaryS]

Now that I have sorted through the myriad of timing and deck height comments, I have a new question: where should I set my needle? 2 o’clock? 2:30? 5:00?

Kurt

Kurt,

You have to be very careful setting your engines using the clock hands method. It can get very confusing depending on what time zone you are in and even more so depending on whether you are in an area with or without daylight savings. If the race happens to fall on the weekend the time is changing, forget about it!

I have also heard that the difficult tuning phenomen known as “Muncie Air” actually is caused by the proximity of the field to the line separating the Eastern and Central time zones.

In an effort to simplify things I have started using the compass method. Simply peak your needle in the morning then open it until it is pointing exactly due East. Works every time. Most Phones have a compass these days, but I have also had decent results approximating based on the location of the sun. Before you know it, you will throwing away your Tach! When using the Compass Method, it is recommended that SAS users open their needle an additional half turn (or Due West). While this is not mandatory, it will help to level the playing field. This of course only applies to the guys actually using SAS, not the ones that sit around and write about it all day/night on the internet.

Hope this helps!! See you at a race soon

Craig

For those that like to use the "Clock Method" to set their needles, it's best to use UTC time, as it negates any effect of different time zones.
SAS users can simply loosen the needle so it moves freely. Therefore the needle can self adjust without any pilot input...just like the control surfaces.

[ceandra]

Leave the setup to Jennifer! She gets it right every time!

Chuck
11H

[fizzwater2]

No wonder Kurt's so fast..

[rocket]

Still a good read.

[Dave N]

It is a great read, but what if your in Canada and use Metric Time?

[airplanescotty]

When you call Flight Weather during your flight planning process,,,, they give you everything in ZULU Time!!!!!!

Is this helpful????

[KRProton]

Still a good read.

I enjoy going over this occasionally to read it from a perspective of better understanding now that I have a couple more years of pylon racing and monkeying with engines under my belt.

Where's the bit about break-in with the picture of the engine on a stand mounted to a cinder block? I couldn't find it here, or maybe it's in another thread.

Thanks Ray!

Tim

[rocket]

Was going over my motors for Phoenix and the conrods in two of them were from 2017. Called Aero Precision and we're good to go. Scribing the date on the rod is a poor man's dope book.

[KRProton]

You didn't really say Ray, but I presume you replaced the rod from 2017?

So how do you determine when to replace a rod? Do you automatically replace them after two seasons of racing assuming you used two (or three or ???) engines about equally each season? Or, what?

Tim

[rocket]

Hard to tell. I've seen motors go 3 or 4 seasons with out issue. Don't remember where I got this motor from. It's a potpourri of used parts. Mostly use it to try different setups. It certainly could have used more after run oil that's for sure. After this picture was taken I actually remove the bearings Venturi and spray bar and threw the case in the garbage. It was in really bad shape. I changed 3 connecting rods today this motor I just use for illustration.

[rocket]

Don't know what happened.

[airplanescotty]

Still a good read.

I enjoy going over this occasionally to read it from a perspective of better understanding now that I have a couple more years of pylon racing and monkeying with engines under my belt.

Where's the bit about break-in with the picture of the engine on a stand mounted to a cinder block? I couldn't find it here, or maybe it's in another thread.

Thanks Ray!

Tim

Jett test stand & remote needle, remote needle stand West System epoxy'd to the concrete! 12 oz Kraft style tank sitting in a Silicone cradle rubber bands keep it there,,,,, rattle can enamel

I drilled thru the concrete and used long Nuts, bolts & washers to secure test stand to the concrete block ~ no way that motor is coming off the block!!!

After a few "Over Tightenings" on the motor clamp screws I drill & tap to 5/16 x18 and problem went away!

I have learned to always "Clean-Out" the remote needle and check the tank clunk before each use. They can get Crude'D-Up after sitting so long and needle wont adjust properly!

XXOO

[rocket]

Their all fast and ready for Phoenix.
Old rod 01-2017, new rod 01-2020.
Looking forward to seeing everyone.