Airplane transport rack from PVC pipe
Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 6:43 pm
I’ve been wanting to make an airplane rack for my van for a couple of years now, but I kept putting it off because I wasn’t sure exactly how I was going to make it. And I didn’t want something hodgepodge and I didn’t want the project to take up the entire weekend, so I just never got started. Until that is, I started racing a third class requiring bringing at least six planes to a race. Wrapping my planes in towels, T-shirts and blankets is ridiculous and no longer going to work!
But even though I wasn’t exactly sure how it was going to come out, once I finally got started I figured it out as I went. So now that my airplane rack is finished I thought my ideas might help the next guy who is thinking about an airplane rack too.
I’d say the best way to start is just get to the hardware store and buy some pipe and fittings. You can figure it out as you go, but expect to make a few trips back to the store and save your receipts! It took me three trips and I returned items a couple of times.
I wasn’t sure what size pipe to buy. I didn’t want it too big and heavy, but I didn’t want my airplane rack to be rickety. I kind of wanted 1-1/4” pipe for the main framework, but those nifty snap-on T-fittings (Snap x threaded Tee I think they’re called) caught my eye. The largest ones were for 1” pipe, so that’s where I started. I knew I wanted the wings stacked across the top with vertical separator tubes from smaller pipe, so I used 1/2” pipe for that. The snap T-fittings are available in two different thread sizes, so I used the one with the larger thread for a coupler that works with 3/4” pipe, so that’s what I used for my cross-braces to support the fuselages across the bottom two layers.
The rack took shape as I went along, but the width was decided by the opening in my van and the height was determined by how much room I wanted for placing the wings on top. I knew there might also be a few occasions where I would sleep in my van, so I made the bottom fuselage rack high enough so I could sleep under the rack if I had to.
I used my miter saw to cut all the pipe – it throws PVC shavings all over the place (even with my shop vac connected to the exhaust tube), but it cuts easy, quick and clean.
I bought everything from Lowe’s. I tried Home Depot on one of my trips, but the snap T-fittings are made by Lasco and my Home Depot doesn’t have that brand.
As can be seen in the images, the rack is comprised of two mirrored ends with all the 1” pipes and fittings permanently glued together. The end racks are joined across the top by two horizontal 1” pipes, but they are not glued into the elbows. Instead, I fastened the pipes with #4 wood screws for disassembly and storage. The lower horizontal racks for the fuselages are from 3/4” pipe with the snap fittings on the ends.
I used more snap fittings across the top for adjustable wing racks and three sizes of foam pipe insulation around the rack as needed. Right now, I have enough vertical pipes for six wings, but could fit ten or twelve wings.
Once I had it all figured out, I disassembled the rack and washed all the cut pipes in my driveway with soapy water – all that tubing is pretty grubby from the store! I considered painting the rack black, but maybe I’ll save that for later.
Before I finally glued the rack together I assembled it once more, put in an airplane and ran some errands around town. The rack was a little shaky, but gluing it together stiffened it up. I still think anchoring it down is a good idea to keep the rack from flexing and moving around when it’s loaded with planes.
There were a few connection points in my van from where I removed the seats and seat belts, so I made hold-down brackets from more pipe, elbows and snap fittings. Once bolted down, the rack is sturdy and not going anywhere.
I also found a container of 10" bungee cords that looks like they will work for securing the fuselages.
With all the returns and receipts I didn’t really keep track of how much the whole deal cost me, but I’d guess it was around a hundred bucks.
Well, there it is! Maybe this will give you some ideas if you’ve been thinking about building a rack too.
More images in following posts...
Tim
But even though I wasn’t exactly sure how it was going to come out, once I finally got started I figured it out as I went. So now that my airplane rack is finished I thought my ideas might help the next guy who is thinking about an airplane rack too.
I’d say the best way to start is just get to the hardware store and buy some pipe and fittings. You can figure it out as you go, but expect to make a few trips back to the store and save your receipts! It took me three trips and I returned items a couple of times.
I wasn’t sure what size pipe to buy. I didn’t want it too big and heavy, but I didn’t want my airplane rack to be rickety. I kind of wanted 1-1/4” pipe for the main framework, but those nifty snap-on T-fittings (Snap x threaded Tee I think they’re called) caught my eye. The largest ones were for 1” pipe, so that’s where I started. I knew I wanted the wings stacked across the top with vertical separator tubes from smaller pipe, so I used 1/2” pipe for that. The snap T-fittings are available in two different thread sizes, so I used the one with the larger thread for a coupler that works with 3/4” pipe, so that’s what I used for my cross-braces to support the fuselages across the bottom two layers.
The rack took shape as I went along, but the width was decided by the opening in my van and the height was determined by how much room I wanted for placing the wings on top. I knew there might also be a few occasions where I would sleep in my van, so I made the bottom fuselage rack high enough so I could sleep under the rack if I had to.
I used my miter saw to cut all the pipe – it throws PVC shavings all over the place (even with my shop vac connected to the exhaust tube), but it cuts easy, quick and clean.
I bought everything from Lowe’s. I tried Home Depot on one of my trips, but the snap T-fittings are made by Lasco and my Home Depot doesn’t have that brand.
As can be seen in the images, the rack is comprised of two mirrored ends with all the 1” pipes and fittings permanently glued together. The end racks are joined across the top by two horizontal 1” pipes, but they are not glued into the elbows. Instead, I fastened the pipes with #4 wood screws for disassembly and storage. The lower horizontal racks for the fuselages are from 3/4” pipe with the snap fittings on the ends.
I used more snap fittings across the top for adjustable wing racks and three sizes of foam pipe insulation around the rack as needed. Right now, I have enough vertical pipes for six wings, but could fit ten or twelve wings.
Once I had it all figured out, I disassembled the rack and washed all the cut pipes in my driveway with soapy water – all that tubing is pretty grubby from the store! I considered painting the rack black, but maybe I’ll save that for later.
Before I finally glued the rack together I assembled it once more, put in an airplane and ran some errands around town. The rack was a little shaky, but gluing it together stiffened it up. I still think anchoring it down is a good idea to keep the rack from flexing and moving around when it’s loaded with planes.
There were a few connection points in my van from where I removed the seats and seat belts, so I made hold-down brackets from more pipe, elbows and snap fittings. Once bolted down, the rack is sturdy and not going anywhere.
I also found a container of 10" bungee cords that looks like they will work for securing the fuselages.
With all the returns and receipts I didn’t really keep track of how much the whole deal cost me, but I’d guess it was around a hundred bucks.
Well, there it is! Maybe this will give you some ideas if you’ve been thinking about building a rack too.
More images in following posts...
Tim