Tutorials for Stabilization and Telemetry on FrSky Taranis X9D with OpenTX

[delateurj]

Wiring:
Receiver connector:
Red wire to the connection marked vin (stands for voltage in, this provides power to the moteino from rx battery).
Orange/Yellow/White depending on connector wire (the signal wire) to the pin marked 7 . (this handles communication with the rx)
Black/Brown depending on connector wire (the ground wire) to the pin marked gnd in the row of 3 connectors at the end of the board.

Sensor connector:

Brown wire (ground) to pin marked GND on the corner of the board
Yellow wire to the pin marked 3 This sends signal from spektrum sensor to the board triggering the interrupt Int1 which causes the function rpmSensorPulse to be run which records the time in microseconds that the pulse was received.
Red wire to the pin marked 3v3. Which unfortunately is right next to the vin. Be careful to not short as that will take out your rx battery I would guess. An alternative is to use the 3v3 pin at the other end of the board in the 3 connectors at the end of the board.

[DonStegall]

As long as you do not store the radio with the antenna on, there should be no issues with it.

[DonStegall]

Hi Don,
...
I have special edition from aloft hobbies with M9 gimbals. Very happy with it and in general I think Aloft is great to work with. Curious about high gain antenna. Please share more details when you do that.
...

Joe,

Thank you very much for all of the info. I will respond and comment on the the parts in other messages.

I did get the STK today and when I get to work with the stuff I have gotten, I will document what I do for others to know and comment on.

Irwin has the high gain screw on antenna added to his X9D (Plus I think).

He has had zero problems with it. He used the proper pigtail and carefully soldered it using a fine tip on his iron. He said that you have to remove just enough shielding and cut just enough off of the insulator to get it soldered on.

He thinks that people have problems because of not watching the proper videos and not being as careful and precise as you have to be.

He loves the ability to take the antenna off.

As long as you do not store the radio with the antenna on, there should be no issues with it.

The long range antenna can get you into trouble with FPV though. He was using a quad with a camera on it to try to see if he could get high speed internet from a cell tower somewhat near his house. He flew a quad toward the tower and got what he wanted to see, but when he turned the quad around, he lost his video feed. He was that far out with full control of the quad. But he did lose the quad because he could not get video back. He did not have a GPS sensor on it and I don't think the receiver or flight controller had GPS. After I get the GPS for planes, I may start using it on my quads for info and retrieval purposes.

The custom edition transmitter I posted the link for already has the screw on connector installed. If I do my current transmitter, I will get Irwin to do it. He is incredibly talented with electronics.

I have tried to get him to do an interview, and we did a test shoot. One of the first questions I asked him was about his start in R/C. His first receiver was one he built in the early 60's. I think it was tube based. Bob Brogdon is a good friend of his. Maybe Bob can convince him to do an interview.

[DonStegall]

Hi Don,

"From the photo it looks like you may be changing the plug on the Spektrum RPM Bracket Sensor. Since the other plug seems to be proprietary, that would make sense." Spektrum actually sells a version with a standard servo plug or you can change the plug. The picture was of a friends. I actually use the proprietary plug.
...
Regards,
Joe.

Joe, I had seen this sensor, but did not know the difference in it and the original. This one looks to have the standard JR servo plug on it. Is this the one?

Aircraft RPM Sensor and Bracket: AR7200BX, AR7300BX (SPM9560)

FWIW ... I downloaded all of the manuals, software, and firmware for the FrSky sensors I have and plan to get on my MacBook.

Do you use a Mac or Windows PC for your OpenTX stuff?

I'm super excited by things like the FLVSS sensor that let you get telemetry for each cell in a 2S to 6S LiPo battery. The documentation for the FLVSS doesn't mention daisy chaining 2 for 12S monitoring like possibly an earlier module I had seen, or else I just looked at a different document I can't locate now. The manual for the FLVSS is at https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/upl ... /FLVSS.pdf.

On my 12S1P setup for the 50cc PC-6, monitoring the batteries is extremely attractive. I don't think that 30 pound monster would be a fun glider.

What has me really excited for that plane and other giant scale planes is the Redundancy Bus-10 so I can have two receivers in case one fails.

If all of the FrSky stuff looks like it will, I will be going to FrSky for all electrics. Probably not for fast glow until I get more comfortable with it. And for gas, I won't know until I use it on the telemetry test stand and try it out in the 1/4 Scale Clipped Wing Cub I'm getting together over the next month or so.

Here are some photos of the FLVSS just plugged into different cell count batteries.

A 4 cell EF1 / Club Wingman battery

The readout of the cells in the 4 cell EF1 battery

A close up of the readout of the cells in the 4 cell EF1 battery

A 6S1P two pound monster for my 50cc PC-6 ... I will be going to 8000 mAh for most flying

The readout of the cells in the 6 cell 6S1P battery

A close up of the readout of the cells in the 6 cell 6S1P battery

[DonStegall]

Now that I have sorted through the myriad of timing and deck height comments, I have a new question: where should I set my needle? 2 o’clock? 2:30? 5:00?

Kurt

Kurt,

You have to be very careful setting your engines using the clock hands method. It can get very confusing depending on what time zone you are in and even more so depending on whether you are in an area with or without daylight savings. If the race happens to fall on the weekend the time is changing, forget about it!

I have also heard that the difficult tuning <phenomena> known as “Muncie Air” actually is caused by the proximity of the field to the line separating the Eastern and Central time zones.

In an effort to simplify things I have started using the compass method. Simply peak your needle in the morning then open it until it is pointing exactly due East. Works every time. Most Phones have a compass these days, but I have also had decent results approximating based on the location of the sun. Before you know it, you will throwing away your Tach! When using the Compass Method, it is recommended that SAS users open their needle an additional half turn (or Due West). While this is not mandatory, it will help to level the playing field. This of course only applies to the guys actually using SAS, not the ones that sit around and write about it all day/night on the internet.

Hope this helps!! See you at a race soon

Craig

Korsen,

Just like I taught you (and thousands of others) how to sheet and build Quickie wings, now I'm going to teach you how to fly, and within a year, win a race.

My goal is to spank you and others at the AMA Pylon NATS in Q40. If not in 2019, by 2020.

My goal I set in 2012 was to be flying Q40 in my 60th year (this one). And be ultra competitive in 2020.

Speaking of time ... I had never, ever, done anything setup wise with my OpenTX Taranis X9D Plus until last night. I got to it at 10:20 pm Thursday night. By 12:00 am I had installed the needed software on my Windows 10 Desktop, had backed up the Tx, updated the Tx to OpenTX V2.2.3, had bound a FrSky S8R (stabilizing) receiver, and was moving servos. By 1:00 am I had telemetry set up and displaying voltage on the Tx via the balancing lead. By 1:30 am I had stabilization working. By 2:00 I had accidentally wiped all my drone models that Irwin had setup. By 2:30 am I had everything back and working. Except for display of each cell in the motor battery. Finally went to bed at 4:30 am. Got up at 6:30 am so I could be here at the hospital for my every 4 week $42K Remicade IV Infusion treatment.

If the loudmouths that are having s*** fits over SAS and Telemetry would just read some, play with the equipment and learn how to really use it, they might get somewhere beyond BS.

Now I'm at the hospital in my chair getting my monthly maintenance fix-up, and getting ready to load all of the OpenTX software that will run on a Mac, onto "Smashie", my MacBook.

See the thread at Tutorials for Stabilization and Telemetry on Spektrum, Futaba, Hitec, FrSky Taranis X9D, and more for more lunch and learn.

After I get the OpenTX stuff on Smashie, I'm going to start writing a document on how to use these forums because a lot of people don't know how to properly attach photos, link to other pages and photos, create nicely formatted messages and other stuff that I've been doing for years. I created the RCPRO forum software that uses the same BBS message tags as this forum. Back in 2003 ... it has never lost a message or photo. So I have a reference of things I have done, even though RCU has fallen apart.

And to the guys wanting Estrellita EF1 / Shark EF1 / Proud Bird EF1 fiberglass parts, the molds will be done by Sunday night except for the opposite side of the cowl molds. Some parts will be ready by a week from now.

I have to bust butt this weekend because we're down to 16 or less 8 ounce Cab-o-sil in the Amazon warehouses now.

(edited to change to higher resolution image)

Part of my Q40 plan all along was to acquire molds so I don't have to spend $500 to $800 on composite airframes. The male molds for the Mako Shark Q40 stabilizer will be ready tomorrow morning. Then I start on the right wing panel this weekend. Whatever problems people thought they were having with that plane will get fixed. If not, I plan to do a Stegall Minnow Q40. I'm looking at doing the Wasabi F1 for Q40 using the Shark wing panels. The wing is just an SD6060, so any perceived problems with the Mako Shark engine runs will become a non-issue.

I already have the PVA in the 2nd version of the Stegall Minnow F1 molds that I'm going to build as an electric. Making the foam cutting templates for the Minnows, the El Bandito, and the T/V BOBCAT this weekend. I want to have the electric Stegall Minnow built for Dad's 85th birthday on July 7 and show it at the NATS.

I wrote the June 2018 Model Aviation pylon feature during one of these sessions a year ago January. Can do is not equal to Have Done ... so I can write ... big deal ... I think the pylon gets benefit from the things I do.

And soon I will be using the info in this thread to get my N40 Q40 LS engines ready to race.

Today I have learned how to take all kinds of screens shots on the Mac. I wanted to be started on loading the OpenTX on the Mac by noon ... looks like I may make it.

(edited to change to higher resolution image)

[DonStegall]

...

[DonStegall]

I'm at the hospital having my ever 4 weeks treatment. I have my Taranis X9D Plus and a full radio setup in my cube.

The Son of The Day is "Shine" on this album Hints Allegations and Things Left Unsaid ... Now that's some Rock and Roll.

For those who have heard you need to be a computer person to use the FrSky Taranis and other OpenTX radios, you are only partially right.

If you can read and watch videos and follow links, that is the important part. And if you need help, and can write a comprehendible message. Or make a phone call, you can do it.

For me it is fun. Irwin Funderburk has done all of my FPV racing drone building and setup on my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus up to now. The last two years have been filled with time eating health issues but I'm in high gear again now.

I had never, ever, done anything setup wise with my OpenTX Taranis X9D Plus until last night. I got to it at 10:20 pm Thursday night. By 12:00 am I had installed the needed software on my Windows 10 Desktop, had backed up the Tx, updated the Tx to OpenTX V2.2.3, had bound a FrSky S8R (stabilizing) receiver, and was moving servos. By 1:00 am I had telemetry set up and displaying voltage on the Tx via the balancing lead. By 1:30 am I had stabilization working. By 2:00 I had accidentally wiped all my drone models that Irwin had setup. By 2:30 am I had everything back and working. Except for display of each cell in the motor battery. Finally went to bed at 4:30 am.

I now have OpenTX running on my MacBook running macOS Mojave.

I'm getting the other software going, but I'm about to hit max rate on my infusion and I may not get it done until this weekend. I have to check a project into source control for the bank before 5 pm and I won't get home until after 2 pm.

[DonStegall]

While I'm excited about OpenTX radios now that I'm finally into them, they aren't for everyone.

A good place to start is reading the Manual.

This is OpenTX Companion 2.2 running on macOS Mojave.

[DonStegall]

I have a 1TB DropBox account.

I have created a folder for sharing FrSky setups at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x5geas2udj1u ... cqUua?dl=0

Everyone has read access. Only people I add will have Edit/Upload access.

If you would like to share your stuff, You can email me at Don.F.Stegall@gmail.com

I will create a folder for you and this can be a good community building hotspot.

I will be creating folders for Spektrum and other brands.

[DonStegall]

On my 50cc Pilatus PC-6 Porter, I'm putting in a 50cc equivalent electric motor. It is the Turnigy RotoMax 50cc Size Brushless Outrunner Motor.

While the HobbyKing web site says it maxes out at 10 LiPo cells, the box and instructions say that it can handle 12 cells in series.

It is rated at 120 amps, but they recommend a 180 amp ESC. I want to be able to monitor the current draw.

I have the Castle Creations Phoenix Edge HVF 160 w/Fan 50V 160-Amp ESC and I also have the Castle Creations Telemetry Link X-Bus, Spektrum Compatible. The ESC has data logging. The Spektrum Telemetry Link let's you get real time information about what is going on with the ESC. Motor RPM, Current Draw, Internal ESC temperature, etc., through Spektrum telemetry.

FrSky has a a current sensor that fits on the positive battery leas into the ESC. It is a coil current sensing device. Since I'm going to be pushing 100-160 amps through the ESC, I want to keep up with how much current the ESC and motor are pulling.

I will be setting up the entire power system on a test stand, and I will probably have both Spektrum and FrSky telemetry monitoring the motor as I work with different props to find out just how much power the motor can produce without getting into a overload or burnout situation.

FrSky has a module for using two receivers and batteries for the radio in a redundant setup. If I determine that I can use the FrSky, I will go that route. I may still use a Spektrum telemetry receiver (or an OrangeRX DSM2/DSMX receiver that has built in-telemetry ports) so I can monitor the ESC 0n a second transmitter.

I may also find out I need to move to a Turnigy RotoMax 100cc Size Brushless Outrunner Motor 167kv.

Any way about it, I should gain significant experience with the different telemetry options for my EF1 pursuits.

[DonStegall]

The thread Tutorials for Stabilization and Telemetry on Spektrum, Futaba, Hitec, FrSky Taranis X9D, and more is going to get too complicated and jumbled up if I do all of the different stabilization and telemetry systems in one place.

So I'm creating this thread for the FrSky and OpenTX information. I will create new threads for Spektrum and other systems.

I'm going to request that Joe move all of the FrSky and OpenTX messages from the above mentioned thread to this one.

[DonStegall]

Jason Oliver posted on my personal Facebook page an attack on my posting on the NMPRA forums.

I'm documenting what I do and learn so others may benefit from what I learn and do.

I have taken a deep dive into OpenTX and FrSky radio equipment. I have a lot more to share including a lot of stabilization and telemetry work. I have many new videos in progress.

He stated that no one wants to see this stuff and that I need to stop posting here and wasting people's time.

I don't care about the people that don't like what I write and do.

If only one person besides me benefits at all, I feel it is worthwhile.

I get lots of emails, so I know that what I do matters to some people.

But I can shift all of my posting to Facebook and RCPRO.

If you want to see more or if you at least find what I'm doing informative or somewhat interesting, please post a message here so I know and others know.

[DonStegall]

I'm setting up a FrSky system for my EF1 planes that I will use until I find something needs to change.

I have found that Amazon prices are a little higher, but you get free shipping and 1-2 day delivery service.

Other good and reliable sources are Aloft Hobbies and GetFPV.com.

I';m setting up the system on a test stands first to get a good handle on the hardware and the Taranis radio with OpenTX 2.2.3

Then I will put it in a Wingman II by The Wings Maker ... StegallHobbies.com will soon be offering a cloned laser cut kit of the Wingman II that will be legal for Club Wingman

The Wingman II can get to about 100 mph with the EF1 propulsion system and an APC Electric Propeller, 10 x 7E or APC 10x7 Thin Electric Propeller. But the wingman is a great sport plane. Because it comes in at about 3.5 pounds when you use servos like the 85MG Micro Servo or Hitec HS-85MG Premium Metal Gear Micro Servo U, it is not as wind resistant as a Club 40 planes. It will be a good test bed for the EF1 configuration.

I will actually be using the Hitec HS5085MG servos until my supply runs out. they are discontinued, however, which is disappointing because the digitals are worth the extra money.

This is the equipment I will be using:

FrSky S8R 8/16 Channel Receiver with 3-axis Stabilization https://amzn.to/2Iq4XjC

FrSky Smart Port RPM and Temperature Sensor https://amzn.to/2UctA5j

FrSky FLVSS LiPo Voltage Sensor with SMARTPort https://amzn.to/2UaURp1

or the

FrSky MLVSS Mini Lipo Voltage Sensor Smart Port Enable Without OLED Screen https://amzn.to/2X1q0x2

FrSky GPS V2 Sensor with Smart Port https://amzn.to/2UaDchc

FrSky Air Speed Sensor Normal Precision https://amzn.to/2KqwUdH

I will show the equipment with notes and the full test stand setup in pictures and video.