MGS 335 resin + hardener in manageable quantities

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KRProton
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Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:11 pm

MGS 335 resin + hardener in manageable quantities

Post by KRProton »

For Sale:

3.7 fluid ounces (about 125g) of MGS L335 resin in 4 oz. bottle
1.7 fluid ounces (about 48g) of 50/50 mix MGS H335F (fast) + H340S (slow) hardeners in 2 oz. bottle

Mixing and instruction sheet included

$20.00 delivered in-person (to a race, etc.)
$29.00 shipped in continental US, pay with Paypal to tim.lampe@hotmail.com

A couple years ago I did a write-up in the Pylon Racing column in Model Aviation about Loctite 9462 epoxy for gluing in firewalls and anything else critically structural in our pylon racing models. I had favored 9462, but over time I found out about epoxies intended for laminating and construction of wood and composite full-size airplanes. Occasionally, I would see some of this “aircraft-grade” epoxy in the engine compartment or a repair job of someone else’s model. It seemed rock hard and adhered extremely well. Through internet research I learned that one of the most-favored aircraft epoxies was MGS (Hexion). But MGS is expensive and sold only in gallon jugs. When you add in two quarts of hardener and shipping, it’s impractical and prohibitively expensive. In my determination to get a hold of this new (to me) epoxy, I continued to read up on the internet until I met a guy in the DLG (discus-launch gliders) forums on RC Groups. Not only does this person use MGS to build his own-design composite DLG gliders, he also uses MGS in large quantities for the full-scale composite airplanes he builds. I got with him and, from one modeler to another, he generously gave me enough MGS to last a few years!

I’ve used MGS for laminating fiberglass or carbon fiber in Q40 fuselages for reinforcement or repairs, and mixed with chopped carbon fiber, flocked cotton or milled fiberglass I’ve used MGS for gluing in firewalls, reinforcing factory-installed firewalls, potting engine mounts, gluing in control horns and reinforcing the landing gear area and firewalls on wood quickies. Due to the long cure time I wouldn’t use this for field repairs, but I think it’s the best you can get for building or repairs in your shop. (Though it will cure in a few hours if warmed.)

The main benefits I see of aircraft-grade epoxies such as MGS are extended working times and the hardness and adhesion I haven’t seemed to find with any other kind or epoxies.

Now, I don’t claim to be an authority in pylon racing and I don’t have the street credibility to go around telling everybody what’s the best this and that, but I’ve been using MGS myself, done some homework including consultation in the pylon racing community and lots of reading on the internet. So if you’re tired of soft, hobby-grade epoxies that don’t provide enough working time, and you would like to use MGS, I have purchased some myself and repackaged it in 4 oz. bottles that are practical and affordable. The working time of the fast hardener is only 10 – 15 minutes, but the cure time of the slow hardener is 2 – 3 days, so I’ve mixed and bottled both hardeners in a 1:1 ratio to average the working and cure times which are 60 – 90 minutes and about 24 hours respectively.

Relevant Specifications:
Resin: MGS (Hexion) L335
Hardener: LH 335 (fast), LH 340 (slow)
Mixing ratio: 100:38 (by weight) resin to hardener
Working time at room temp. (for 50/50 fast/slow hardener mix offered): approx. 60 - 90 minutes
Minimal curing time at room temp: approx. 16 - 20 hours

Open the attached PDF instruction sheet at the very bottom of this post for more information.

Here are some links to more about MGS if you would like to read further:

MGS overview (you can also scroll down the page to open the Technical Data Sheet):
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... -41100.php

Article about structural fillers:
https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-buildi ... nstruction

Tim Lampe
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MGS epoxy instructions.pdf
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