Latest and greatest timing and deck height?

[KRProton]

Hey, it worked! Just like Ray said!

Thanks Ray!

Tim

[rocket]

I talked to Mike about it. His response was Henry likes them tight. And as mentioned before, some snap right in but most needed to be whacked with a tool. Even seen people bolt the prop on, install the spinner then whack the spinner with a blunt object to "seat" the bearings. Your motor will thank you.

[iamtom]

Be careful boys. You run the risk of your motor becoming Void. No metal removal. Stock means stock. What you are allowed to do to your motor is in the rule book.
Just sayin!! You also are posting on an a website where many visit.

[DT]

Tim in your video it appears your fuel inlet is positioned incorrectly! It should point straight back as the inlet hole is positioned on an angle! Take a look you'll see what I'm talking about.

Dan

[rocket]

Be careful boys. You run the risk of your motor becoming Void. No metal removal. Stock means stock. What you are allowed to do to your motor is in the rule book.
Just sayin!! You also are posting on an a website where many visit.

Nope, no performance enhancing mods. If it's an issue send it mike and tell him to do it..

[rocket]

Good eye dan...

[KRProton]

Thanks for the tip Dan and for the words of caution Tom.

The thought of gaining any performance advantage never even occurred to me, but sure thing; rules are rules. I'd just like my engine to last as long as whatever it's supposed to. And I hate to think I'd be contributing to another new guy like myself doing anything illegal to his engine, so I deleted my video. I'll be more careful now.

Thanks again.

Tim

[rocket]

Tim, what I was showing you is a do it your self fix to a machining tolerance. No crank grinding, no case grinding, no timing changes. All of which are illegal. The rules say no metal removal, we'll it's a gray area. When you clean a piston your removing metal, when you wipe off rust your removing metal, when you clean the face of the backplate after a crash your removing metal. All of which are acceptable. Maybe I should have put a disclaimer for the option to send it back to the manufacturer to preform this lol, illegal engine mod. That being said, if you opt for the ceramic bearings "which are legal to use" the tolerance on those fit tons better than the Swiss balls. Remember, from new, some snap in some dont. Hell, just buy some xtra bearings and see which fits better.

[rocket]

Ordered some parts today from mike. We spoke at length about the front bearing tolerance. Mike tries very hard to keep the motors as exact as posdible. But, and I don't blame him, he won't comment an anything about the do it your self ers. At APM they press all the cranks in. An alternative to making the parts fit better during assembly is to freeze the crank and heat the case. Just like you would when installing new bearings. Mike also said to never use a "hammer" to install or remove a crank. The balls will get damaged and you will need a new front bearing. So tim, if I caused you to do something you deem illegal and feel like you have been used I apologize. It was not my intent. I don't now and haven't for a long time ground on a motor. All completely stock.. so I'd like to replace your longstroke with a new one from mike. If that's ok. I'll take your old one and put it to good use. Message me.
Ray

[KRProton]

Ordered some parts today from mike. We spoke at length about the front bearing tolerance. Mike tries very hard to keep the motors as exact as posdible. But, and I don't blame him, he won't comment an anything about the do it your self ers. At APM they press all the cranks in. An alternative to making the parts fit better during assembly is to freeze the crank and heat the case. Just like you would when installing new bearings. Mike also said to never use a "hammer" to install or remove a crank. The balls will get damaged and you will need a new front bearing. So tim, if I caused you to do something you deem illegal and feel like you have been used I apologize. It was not my intent. I don't now and haven't for a long time ground on a motor. All completely stock.. so I'd like to replace your longstroke with a new one from mike. If that's ok. I'll take your old one and put it to good use. Message me.
Ray

First of all Ray, I already sent you a complimentary PM before you wrote this post.

Second, no way buddy! I LOVE my engine! I'm perfectly happy with it and confident enough that all will be okay here regarding the crankshaft. Plus, it's all broken-in and running swell!

Third, I'm a big boy and can take responsibility for my own actions. The rules are published for all to see and I need to make myself more familiar with them.

Some day I hope to have enough experience that I can share my knowledge instead of sucking it all up.

Of course, I understand your intent 100% and mine was the same with my video - just to pay it forward a little with an instructional video for the next guy. I think we're okay here and I'm quite happy and content with everything. And you're certainly one stand-up guy! I'm good if you're good - and go check your PM!

Tim

[rocket]

Thanks Tim. The messages I received from others thanking me and other contributors to this thread is cool. Little tricks and trinkets and whatnots really make a difference. Especially re using old parts. This stuff ain't cheap and if being able to refurbish used parts is something that keeps folks racing then by all means have at it. There's a lot of black art in pylon and we're always learning.

[KRProton]

I don't think that needling the engine, typical maintenance, reading glow plugs and understanding deck height and piston/head clearance need to be black art. When I got my engine it came in a bag. If there were more guys like you around, pylon racing -- or at least Q40 -- might be more accessible. Then guys like you would have even MORE competition to stomp on! I mean, the class could grow.

Okay, now I'm pontificating. Better get outta here - I got some graphics to go cut!

Tim

P.S. For those who cannot remove their crankshaft by hand and press it out with a press or drill press or whatever (and therefore cannot thoroughly flush out the bearings), it would be interesting to know how you prepare your engine for storage between races during the season and how you prepare them for storage longer-term in the off-season.

[KRProton]

Say,

I ordered some various spare parts for my Nelson (package received - thanks Mike!). The bag containing the head is labeled .8014 as shown. This is the diameter of the button (?) portion of the head that protrudes into the sleeve. Why is this dimension significant? Is it to be matched with a sleeve of particular dimension? Or, is it just confirmation that it's what it's supposed to be?

Thanks.

Tim

[sahartman21]

P.S. For those who cannot remove their crankshaft by hand and press it out with a press or drill press or whatever (and therefore cannot thoroughly flush out the bearings), it would be interesting to know how you prepare your engine for storage between races during the season and how you prepare them for storage longer-term in the off-season.

I've had good luck by flushing the engine with lighter fluid (or camp fuel*) after the race. Then I follow with drops of after run oil (machine oil). The idea is to flush out the fuel and any nitro to reduce rusting of bearings.

*Note: Mike Langlois recommended the Coleman Camp fuel

[rocket]

Kerosene, when my diesel motor in my pickup truck was rebuilt I couldn't believe how much rust was inside the injector lines. Those lines live in diesel fuel where did the rest come from. Completely flushing the motor with anything it's probably still the best bet. The lubricating oil in a spray can with the little black hose doesn't smell nearly as much as kerosene. Plus you can open the window in the crank and squirt it right into the motor. An interesting side note, with Fai fuel there is no Nitro. We usually don't use after run oil. If you disassemble one a week or even a month after the last one you don't find Rust. Completely coated with Castor on the inside. The only difference is the Nitro. You hear rumors about the alcohol evaporating out and leaving moisture if that was the case why don't the FAI
Motors rust like quarter midget and quickie Motors.